Iran

공식 이름은 이란 이슬람 공화국(Islāmic Republic of Iran/Jomhūrῑ-ye Eslāmῑ-ye Ῑrān).

공식명칭 : 이란이슬람공화국(Islamic Republic of Iran)

인구 : 72,269,000

면적 : 1,628,750㎢

수도 : 테헤란

정체·의회형태 : 중앙집권이슬람공화제, 단원제

국가원수/정부수반 : 대통령/대통령

공식 언어 : 파르시어(페르시아어)

독립년월일 : 1906. 10. 7

화폐단위 : 리알(rial/Rls), 1US$=10,000IR

국가(國歌) : Shod Jomhoori-e-Islami bepah("The Islamic Republic has been founded")

서남아시아에 있는 국가.

수도는 테헤란이다. 국민을 구성하는 가장 큰 인종 집단은 페르시아인들이고 그 외 아제르바이잔인, 쿠르드족, 루르족, 바흐티아리족, 발루치족으로 구성된다. 공용어는 페르시아어이지만 매우 다양한 언어가 사용된다. 공식 국교는 시아파 이슬람교이지만 조로아스터교를 믿는 이들도 있다. 화폐 단위는 리알(rial)이다. 면적은 1,648,200㎢, 인구는 74,196,000(2009 추계). 이란의 지형은 평균 고도 460m가 넘는 고원지대이고, 산들로 둘러싸여 있다. 지표면의 절반 이상이 염분 사막과 사람이 살 수 없는 황무지로 이루어져 있다. 전 국토면적 가운데 약 10% 정도가 경작 가능하며, 25%는 목초지로 적합하다. 세계 석유매장량의 10%가량에 해당되는 풍부한 석유매장량은 이란 경제의 기반이다.

단원제를 채택한 이슬람 공화국이고, 국가의 종교지도자로 구성되는 여러 감독기구가 있다. 국가와 정부의 수반은 대통령이지만 최고 권한은 종교지도자(rahbar)에게 있다. 이란에 사람이 살기 시작한 시기는 대략 10만 년 전까지 거슬러 올라가지만, 문자로 기록된 역사와 문명은 BC 3000년경 엘람인들부터 시작되었다. 파르티아인들은 BC 247년에 제국을 건설했으나 AD 226년경에 사산인들에게 통치권을 넘겨주었다. 7세기부터 여러 이슬람 왕조들이 통치했다. 1501년 사파위 왕조가 건국되어 1736년까지 지속되었다. 1796년부터 카자르 왕조가 통치했으나 19세기에는 러시아와 영국 제국의 경제적 지배 상태에 놓였다. 1921년 쿠데타에 의해 레자 한이 권력을 잡았다. 그의 아들 모하마드 레자 샤 팔라비는 근대화와 서구화 정책을 시행하면서 종교 지도자들을 소외시켰고 그 정권은 1979년에 전복되었다. 그 후 시아파 종교 지도자 루홀라 호메이니는 이슬람 공화국을 세웠고, 서유럽은 더 이상 영향력을 행사하지 못하게 되었다. 두 나라 경제를 파탄으로 몰고 간 1980년대의 이란-이라크 전쟁은 교착 상태로 끝이 났다. 1990년대 이후 정부의 국정운영은 점차 자유주의적 방향으로 바뀌었다.

이란은 해발 460m 이상인 고원지대에 평균고도 2,000m가 넘는 산들로 둘러싸여 있다. 실제로 저지대는 이라크와의 국경 주변에 있는 카룬 강 유역과 페르시아·오만 만 주변의 좁은 연안지대, 카스피 해 주변의 연안 늪지대뿐이다. 북쪽 엘부르즈 산맥에는 이란에서 가장 높은 다마반드 산(5,604m)을 비롯하여 여러 개의 화산이 솟아 있다. 엘부르즈 산맥은 카스피 해 연안을 따라 뻗어나가다가 동쪽 국경을 이루는 호라산(후라산) 산맥과 만난다. 호라산 산맥은 남쪽의 발루치스탄 산맥과 함께 동쪽 내륙 고원지대의 경계를 이룬다. 대부분 불모지인 고원은 광활한 염분(鹽分) 사막이 특징적이다. 이란에서 가장 큰 산맥은 자그로스 산맥으로, 북서쪽 아르메니아 국경지대에서 뻗어나와 남동쪽 마크란 산맥까지 이어져 있다.

대체로 강수량이 적은 지형으로 카스피 해 주변의 좁은 연안지역만 연강수량이 1,000㎜ 이상이며, 내륙의 염분 사막은 100㎜도 되지 않는다. 강들은 대부분 계절천이며, 내륙을 흐르는 물길들은 대부분 해안 늪지대로 흘러들거나 지하수가 된다. 배가 다닐 수 있는 강은 카룬 강뿐이다. 지역에 따라 기온차가 아주 심해 페르시아 만 주변의 여름기온이 55℃인 반면, 북서부 아제르바이잔(아자르바이잔)의 겨울기온은 －37℃에 이른다. 국토의 1/2 이상이 황무지로 거의 사람이 살 수 없는 염분 사막이다. 전국토면적 가운데 약 1/10이 경작지이며, 1/4은 목초지로 이용된다. 농경지 중 관개가 이루어지는 1/3가량은 대부분 사막과 산맥 사이의 변두리 구릉지대에 위치한다. 국토의 약 1/8을 차지하는 삼림은 대부분 카스피 해 주변에 위치하는데, 수종은 떡갈나무·너도밤나무·린덴·느릅나무 및 활엽 상록수 등이 주종을 이룬다. 늑대·여우·표범·살쾡이·영양·사슴 등의 야생동물이 많이 서식하며, 야생염소와 양들도 있다. 풍부한 매장량을 자랑하는 유전은 남서부 페르시아 만 어귀에 몰려 있다. 세계 석유매장량의 약 9%를 차지하는 이란의 석유매장량은 세계 제5위이며, 천연 가스 매장량은 세계매장량의 1/7을 차지한다. 석탄·구리·철광석도 상당량 매장되어 있다.

이란은 여러 개의 언어를 쓰는 다양한 민족 사회로 구성되어 있다. 총인구의 45%를 차지하는 이란인(페르시아인)이 가장 인구가 많고 널리 분포된 민족이다. 서부 산악지대에는 정부의 동화 노력에 저항해온 유목민족인 쿠르드족과 페르시아 원주민으로 보이는 반(半)유목민족인 루르족이 살고 있으며, 에스파한(이스파한) 서쪽 자그로스 산맥에는 루르족과 밀접한 관련이 있는 바흐티아리족이 거주하고 있다. 루르족과 바흐티아리족 모두 페르시아어 방언인 루르어를 쓰며, 발루치스탄에 사는 발루치족도 루르어를 사용한다. 이란에 거주하는 또하나의 민족 집단인 아르메니아인들은 인도유럽어족에 속하는 고유 언어를 계속 쓰고 있다.

인구 가운데 투르크계의 비율은 적은 편이지만 이란인의 1/4가량이 튀르크어에 속하는 언어를 사용한다. 3개의 주요 투르크계 민족집단은 이란 서북부 모퉁이의 아제르바이잔인과 페르시아 만 동쪽 시라즈 지역의 카슈카이인, 동북부 호라산 지역의 투르크멘족 등이다. 소수의 셈족(유대인·아시리아인·아랍인)도 거주한다. 이란인들의 대다수는 이슬람교도로서 대부분 공식 국교인 시아파 이슬람교를 신봉한다. 쿠르드족과 투르크멘족은 수니파 이슬람교도이며, 이밖에 소수 종교인 그리스도교·유대교·바하이교·조로아스터교 등이 있다. 출생률은 높고 인구는 비교적 젊은 편으로 2/5 이상이 15세 미만이다. 연간인구성장률이 세계 평균에 비해 비교적 높은 편이나, 중동에서는 평균에 가깝다.

이란 경제는 혼합경제체제로 재정은 대부분 석유 생산을 통해 조달된다. 1990년대초에는 1980∼90년 오랜 기간 계속된 이란-이라크 전쟁으로 인해 막대한 외채와 여러 심각한 경제문제에 직면하게 되었다. 이 때부터 석유수출이 재개되었고, 경제를 평화시 체제로 전환하려는 노력에 착수해 고무적인 결과를 얻었다. 국민총생산(GNP)은 중동에서 가장 높으나, 갑자기 증가한 인구 때문에 1인당 GNP는 평균 이하일 것으로 추산된다.

농업 부문은 국내총생산(GDP)의 약 1/5에 지나지 않으며, 이란 노동력 가운데 1/4이 종사하고 있다. 경작기술이 취약하고 물이 부족한데다가 시장을 이용하기가 어려워 생산에 어려움을 겪고 있으며, 식량 생산이 국내 수요를 따르지 못해 상당 부분을 수입에 의존하고 있다. 가장 중요한 작물은 밀·감자·보리·포도·쌀·옥수수·사탕무·사탕수수·담배 등이며, 목재도 해마다 상당량 생산된다. 근해 어업이 국내 소비와 수출(특히 철갑상어알)에 한몫을 한다. 석유 생산을 중심으로 이루어지는 광업 부문이 GNP의 1/4 이상을 차지하며, 노동력의 1/5가량을 담당한다. 1950년대에 국유화된 이란 석유산업은 1980년 이란-이라크 전쟁이 일어난 후 아바단에 있는 정유공장을 비롯한 유전·정유소·수출항 등의 시설 전반이 파손되면서 막대한 피해를 입었다. 그결과 1990년대초 석유 생산량은 1976년도 생산량의 1/2 수준으로 떨어졌다. 막대한 매장량의 천연 가스를 비축·보급하는 국영시설은 중동 최대규모로 꼽힌다. 석유와 천연 가스를 제외한 다른 광물자원은 대부분 개발되지 않은 상태에 있다.

그밖에 직물(특히 전통 수출품인 직조 양탄자)·가공식품·자동차·전기기구·철·강철·시멘트 등이 생산된다. 1970년대에 석유 수출로 얻은 소득으로 산업 부문에 막대한 투자를 한 결과 경제발전이 가속화되어왔으나 숙련된 노동력의 부족, 사회간접자본의 부실, 원료의 부족 등 여러 가지 심각한 문제가 아직까지 남아 있다. 전력의 4/5 이상이 국산 연료를 이용해 생산되며, 나머지는 수력발전으로 충당된다. 전국적인 전력 공급망이 1970년대부터 건설되기 시작했으나, 건설 속도는 늦은 편이다.

1949년에 시작된 경제개발계획은 1979년 혁명과 함께 끝났다. 이란은 모든 주요산업·은행·보험회사를 국유화하고, 경제 자립이라는 궁극적인 목표에 따라 농업 부문과 일부 선별된 산업에 대해 막대한 투자를 약속했으나, 불안한 국내 상황과 이라크와의 전쟁으로 중요한 경제 조치들의 실시는 1990년대 중반까지만 해도 사실상 불가능하게 되었다. 그러나 석유 생산의 재개로 국가재정이 안정되었고 자유시장의 개시로 농업·공업의 국내 생산이 증가했다. 수출품은 석유와 석유 관련제품이 거의 전부를 차지한다. 주요수입품목은 기계(전기 제외)·철강·곡물·운송장비 등이며, 주요교역상대국은 일본·독일·이탈리아·프랑스·영국 등이다.

1979년에 채택된 이슬람 공화국 헌법에 따라 최고 정치권력은 국가의 종교지도자인 '발리이에 파키'에게 주어지며, 파키의 지위를 맡을 인물이 없는 경우에는 3∼5명으로 구성된 종교지도자 의회가 그 역할을 대신한다. 종교지도자(또는 종교지도부)는 헌법수호위원회 위원 성직자 12명 중 6명을 임명한다. 헌법수호위원회는 단원제 국회인 이슬람 자문회의(마질레스)에서 통과된 법안의 합헌성과 이슬람 교리에 대한 충실성 여부를 심의한다. 마질레스는 국민투표로 선출된 270명의 의원으로 이루어지며, 의원의 임기는 4년이다. 행정부는 대통령과 총리가 함께 이끄는데 임기 4년의 대통령은 국민투표로 선출되며, 총리는 대통령이 임명한 후 마질레스의 승인을 받는다. 1987년 정당들이 해산되기 전까지 가장 중요한 정당은 집권 이슬람공화당이었다. 최고 사법권은 대법원과 최고 사법위원회를 구성하는 종교 재판관들에게 부여된다.

수도 밖의 위생 상태는 아주 나쁜 편이며, 소도시들과 농촌지역에서는 비위생적인 환경이나 의료진·의료시설 부족으로 어려움을 겪는 경우가 많다. 성홍열·백일해·폐결핵·장티푸스와 같은 전염병이 널리 퍼져 있으며, 유아사망률도 세계 기준이나 중동 기준보다 상당히 높아 심각한 문제가 되고 있다. 평균수명은 남자 66세, 여자 69세이다. 5년 동안의 초등 의무교육이 규정되어 있지만 농촌의 경우 부모의 반대 또는 시설부족 등의 이유로 학교에 다니지 못하는 어린이들이 많다. 중등교육 제도는 비교적 발전 수준이 낮은 편으로, 주로 소수의 학생들에게 대학입학 준비 수준의 교육을 실시하는 데 그친다. 문맹률은 다른 아랍 국가들과 비교할 수 없을 정도로 높다. 언론은 이슬람 공화국 통신사에서 통제한다.

이란은 네자미, 페르도우시, 사디, 오마르 하이얌과 같은 세계적으로 유명한 시인들을 배출해왔으며, 모스크를 비롯한 건축으로도 유명하다. 페르시아 양탄자는 아직까지 그 예술성과 장인정신으로 감탄의 대상이 되고 있다.

이란에 사람이 정착한 시기는 구석기시대 초기(BC 100000년경)로 거슬러 올라갈 수 있으나, 문자로 기록된 역사와 문명은 BC 3000년경 후제스탄의 엘람인들과 함께 시작되었다. BC 2000년 이후 인도유럽어족에 속하는 이란인들이 나타나 여러 왕국을 이루기 시작했다. BC 728∼550년 메디아 왕조가 번영을 누렸으나, 키루스 2세가 이끄는 페르시아군에 무너졌다. 그후 중동지역에 광대한 제국을 세우고, 로마 제국이 나타날 때까지 가장 큰 제국으로서 번영을 누리던 페르시아 대제국은 알렉산드로스 대왕의 침략으로 사라졌고, 뒤이은 마케도니아의 셀레우코스 왕조도 원주민인 파르티아인들의 손에 차츰 무너져갔다(BC 247∼AD 226). 파르티아인들은 그리스어를 사용하는 제국을 세웠으나, 거의 끊임없는 로마와의 전쟁으로 약화되어 1,000년 전 아케메네스 왕조 페르시아인들을 배출했던 파르스에서 온 이란 민족인 사산인들의 손에 넘어갔다.

조로아스터교를 국교로 삼았던 사산 왕조가 비잔틴 제국과의 전쟁으로 많은 희생을 치른 후 세력이 약화되자, 아랍 이슬람교도들이 침략하기 시작해 640년에는 쉽게 이곳을 정복하기에 이르렀다. 그후 850년 동안 이란은 사파르·사만·가즈나·셀주크 왕조를 비롯한 비(非)이란계 이슬람 왕조의 지배를 받다가, 1502년 아랍 정복 이후에야 비로소 이란에 거주하기 시작한 이란계 가문인 사파위 왕조의 통치를 받게 되었다. 사파위 왕조시대에 국교로 제정된 시아파 이슬람교는 오늘날까지 이란의 국교로 이어져 내려오고 있다. 사파위 왕조시대(1502∼1736) 이후 벌어졌던 수많은 내전 끝에 1779년 카자르 왕조가 지배권을 확립했으나, 유럽의 정치 개입으로 이란의 장래는 심각한 영향을 받았다. 즉 중동을 향한 러시아 제국의 남하정책이 인도 대륙에 세력을 구축하던 영국을 위협하자 이 두 국가가 이란에서 교역과 외교 문제로 서로 경쟁하기 시작했으며, 그결과 이란은 경제적으로 유럽의 두 강대국의 지배를 받는 반(半)식민지 상태에 놓이게 되었다. 20세기가 시작될 무렵 카자르 군주인 나세르 옷 딘 샤의 지배에 항거하는 폭동이 여러 차례 일어났다. 무능한 그의 아들 모자파르 옷 딘샤는 1906년에 국회(마질레스)를 소집하여 헌법을 승인하기에 이르렀다.

제1차 세계대전에 이은 기근과 경제적 붕괴로 1921년에 쿠데타가 일어나자, 레자 한이 권력을 잡고 1925년 카자르 왕조를 무너뜨린 후 스스로를 레자 샤 팔라비로 칭하고 왕위에 올랐다. 나치 독일과 협력했다는 이유로 왕위에서 물러난 그의 뒤를 이어 아들 모하마드 레자 샤 팔라비가 권력을 계승했다. 팔라비는 이란의 현대화·서구화 계획에 착수했으나, 이 과정에서 많은 종교지도자들이 소외되고 권력이 제한된 결과 1970년대에 그에 반대하는 시위가 일어나게 되었으며, 1979년에는 결국 정부가 무너지고 팔라비는 망명길에 올랐다. 파리에서 망명생활을 하던 시아파 지도자 루홀라 호메이니는 이란으로 돌아와 1979년 이슬람 공화국을 세우기 위한 움직임을 주도했다.

혁명 후 이슬람 근본주의에 바탕을 둔 법이 제정되었고, 서유럽은 이란에 대해 더이상 영향력을 행사하지 못하게 되었다. 1980년 이라크군이 기존의 국경선을 규정한 조약(1975)을 파기하고 이란을 침공하면서 두 나라 경제를 모두 파탄으로 몰고 간 이란-이라크 전쟁이 시작되었다. 이 전쟁은 막대한 인적·물적·경제적 손실을 끼치며 계속되다가 1990년에 종전되었다. 1989년 호메이니가 죽고 1990년 전쟁이 끝난 후 이란은 국제적 고립에서 벗어나려는 움직임을 보이고 있다.

■ Itineraries

• The Footsteps of Empire

Mashhad -(fly)- Ahvaz - Shush - Choqa Zanbil - Shiraz - Persepolis - Abarqu - Yazd - Meybod - Chak Chak- Kharanaq - Esfahan - Kashan - Abyaneh - Tehran - Qazvin - Masuleh - Soltaniyeh- Zanjan - Tabriz - Kandovan - Maku

• Pakistan에서 직접 오게 될 경우

Zahedan -(fly)- Ahvaz - 이후 일정 앞의 일정과 동일

1. Mashhad(0511, pop 3,000,000 / elevation 1019m)

The true depth of religious feeling in Iran is perhaps best displayed in this, its holiest city.

<Information>

- Emergency

• Imam Reza Hospital(854-3031-9;Ebn-e Sina St)

• Police Headquarters(222-2001; Imam Khomeini Sq, Imam Khomeini St)

• Tourist Police(841-8236; Beit-ol-Moqaddqs Sq)

- Internet Access

• Khayyam Internet Cafe(851-5533; Imam Reza St; per hr IR6000)

• Pars Coffee Net(221-5383; Daheshgah St)

• Tooba Internet Cafe(Imam Reza St; per hr IR5000)

- Money

• Bank Melli Central Branch(Imam Khomeini St)

• Bank Sepah Central Branch(Andarzgu St)

• Bank Tejarat(Andarzgu St)

• Sepehri Exchange(Pasdaran Ave)

- Post

• Main Post Office(Imam Khimeini St)

• Post Office(Shahrivar Sq)

- Tourist Information

• ITTO Khorasan(726-9501; Saheb al-Zaman Ave, Molavi St)

- Travel Agencies

• Adibian Travel Agency(859-8151; www.adibiantours.com; 56 Pasdaran Ave)

• Adibian Travel Agency(859-8151, www.adibiantours.com; 56 Pasdaran Ave)

- Visa Extensions

• Aliens Office(Rahnama'i Sq, Rahnama'i St)

<Sights>

- Astan-E Qods-E Razavi

- Holy Shrine

- Azim-e Gohar Shad Mosque

- Museums

• Muze-ye Markazi(Main Museum; admission IR3000)

• Muze-ye Qu'ran(Quran Museums; admission IR3000)

- Biq'eh-ye Khajeh Rabi

- Nader Shah Museum(222-4888; cnr Shirazi & Azadi Sts; admission IR30,000)

- Other Arrractions

• Mosque of the 72 Martyrs(Masjed-e 72 Tan Shahid)

• Gonbad-e Sabz(Green Dome; Falaki-ye Gonbad-e Sabz)

<Sleeping>

- Budget

• Tous Hotel(fax 222-4385; Shirazi St; tw IR70,000)

• Alaleh Apartment Hotel(fax 859-8508; Beit-ol-Moqaddas Sq; per person IR70,000)

• Saba Inn(222-3515; Andarzgu St; tw IR50,000)

• Hotel Nasr(854-2554; Onsori Stl tw IR80,000)

- Midrange

• Karimkhan Apartment Hotel(854-9407; www.karimkhanhotel.8k.com; Imam Reza St, Karbala Alley; apt IR210,000)

• Razi Hotel(854-1122;fax854-4099; Razi St; tw with breakfast US$20)

- Top End

• Iran Hotel(222-8010; www.irhotel.com; Andarzgu St; r with breakfast US$54)

<Eating>

- Silk Road Restaurant(Khayyam Blvd; meals IR85,000)

- Pars Restaurant(222-5331; Imam Khomeini St; meals IR25,000)

- Restaurant Nasr(Imam Reza St, Onsori St; meals IR25,000) When we had difficulty with the menu, we were led to the kitchen to present the options - some decent khoreshts(thick, meaty stews), a range of kebabs and bademjun(eggplant served in various styles)

- Malek Restaurant(225-7001; Andarzgu Stl meals IR25,000)

- Ferdosi Restaurant(854-2884; Imam Reza St; meals IR20,000)

- Moein Darbary Restaurant(878-5248; Kalantari Hwy(Sento St); meals IR55,000)

- Mashhad Hotel(222-2666), Karimkhan Apartment Hotel(854-9407), Imam Reza St.

<Drinking>

- Fruit Shakes

• Vitamin Sara(222-7998; Shahid Raja'i St) Probably the best fruit shakes in Iran! Try the shake with half a banana, ice cream, honey and crushed postachios(IR5500)

- Teahouses

• Hezardestan Traditional Teahouse(222-2943; Jannat Mall; meals IR45,000, tea IR6000) the speciality of the house is chaykhohy, a tea said to be particularly relaxing.

• Bagh-e Sabz Teahouse(Imam Khomeini & Shahid Raja'i Sts)

<Shopping>

- Bazar-e Reza

<Getting There & Away>

- Air : Domestic Services(to Ahvaz IR369,000, 2 weekly)

• Iran Air(225-2080; airportinformation tel199; Imam Khomeini St)

• Iran Aseman(225-8220; www.iaa.ir; Andarzgu St)

• Saha Airlines(221-9294; saha2@isiran-net.com; Andarzgu St)

- Bus, Minibus & Savari

• The chaotic bus station(9-9001) is at the southern end of Mashhad, but easy to reach by any shared taxi(IR4000) heading south along Imam Reza St.(Tehran IR35,000, 14hr; Estahan IR75,000, 22hr etc.)

- Train : The 926km train journey to Tehran makes an excellent alternative to the plane or long hours of bus travel. The train station(tel 139) is easily reached by shared taxi(IR1000 from the centre ot town), and taxis from the yellow booth outside the station cost about IR5000 to most central hotels. Ahvaz(IR97,850, 30hr).

2. Ahvaz(0611, pop 1,040,000)

Abu Nuwas('Father of Curls') is perhaps the only Muslim poet celebrated for writing homoerotic drinking songs(khamriyyat). He was born in AD 756 in Avaz, but got out as soon as he could.

<Information>

- Bank Melli(Azadegan St) Changes money.

- Iran Handicrafts(Opposite the Fajr Grand Hotel) Sells pamphlets and a detailed, but dangerously outdated, city map.

- ITTO(222-4024; Shahid Atangari St)

- Main Post Office( Felestin St)

- PishgamanISP.com(222-5183;Taleqani St) Fast Internet Connection

- Post Office(Azadegan St)

- Tayareh Travel Agency(222-9849;fax222-6108; Azadegan St)

- Telephone Office(Shari'ati St)

<Sights>

- Jezari Mosque(Behbahani Hwy)

<Sleeping>

- Fajr Grand Hotel(222-0091;fax 221-8677; Karun Riverbank; d $95)

- Iran Hotel(221-7200; Shari'ati Sr; s/tw IR150,000/250,000)

- Naderi Hotel(222-9000;fax222-2610; Imam Khomeini St; small/big $30/45)

- Tulu(222-2221; Shari'ati St; tw IR60,000)

<Eating>

- Pol Restaurant(222-6279; meals IR7,000-27,000)

- Riverside(Rudkenar; 333-2421; meals IR20,000-40,000)

<Getting There & Away>

- Air : Iran Air, Caspian Airlines and Kish Air all fly daily or more to Tehran(IR196,000). There are other flights to Kuwait(IR1,060,000) on Saturday, Dubai(IR960,000) on Wednesday, Estahan(IR144,000), Mashhad(IR369,000 twice weekly), and Shiraz(IR169,000) on Friday.

- Bus, Minibus & Shared Taxi : From the big main bus stations you can get virtually anywhere. For Buhshehr(IR17,000 to IR35,000, seven hours). Minibuses run regularly to Andimeshk(IR4000,2hr30min) and more rarely to Shush from a separate nearby yard/terminal that's so well hidden that drivers deny it exists. The terminal for buses to Shushtar(IR3500,1hr30min) is haltway to the airport on Pasdaran Blvd, some 3km northeast of Abadan Sq. There are no tickets. Instead your name is written down and there's a roll call when the list is full.

- Train : Overnight trains to Tehran leave at 12:30pm(IR16,700,17hr30min) stopping all stations, 3:40pm(IR30,750 to IR49,300) and 5pm(IR103,400,15hr30min) air-conditioned.

<Getting Around>

Shared taxis from Abadan Sq pass within 1km of the airport or pay IR5000 by taxi. Also from Abadan Sq you can reach Abadan terminal by minibus and Shushtar terminal by shared taxi. The handiest shared taxis run from the bus station area, Seran Khorramshahr(Enqelab Sq), to Sa'at Sq(for the train station, IR1000) and on down Narderi(Salman-e-Farsi) St to 'Chahrah'(IR1500) near the flyover at Shari'ati St. To the drivers raising three fingers means 'to Enqelab Sq', four fingers means 'to the centre'.

3. Shush(0642, pop 67,000)

<Sights>

- Ancient City

• archaeological site(admission IR30,000)

• Chateau de Morgan

• Palace of Darius

• Apadana

• Royal Gate, Royal City

- Tomb of Daniel

<Sleeping & Eating>

- Shush has only one hotel, the Apadana Hotel and Restaurant(fax 522-3131; tw IR120,000)

- The hotel restaurant is the best place to eat, although there are plenty of snack bars and kababis scattered around the bazaar area.

<Getting There & Away>

Long-distance buses en route to Ahvaz can often be persuaded to drop passengers off on the main highway, 2km east of town. Shared taxis shuttle from this point into the centre, but not necessarily at 2am when most buses go by. Heading out of Shush, you'll usually need to go first to Andimeshk or Ahvaz.

Halfway between the highway and the town centre, minibuses to Andimeshk (IR1200, 38km) are frequent, to Dezful(for Shushtar) and Ahvaz, much more occasional, each from a separate but nearby terminal. The hotel can call you a sensibly priced taxi to get you to Choqa Zanbil and/or Shushtar(IR80,000).

4. Choqa Zanbil & Haft Tappeh

The ideal way to visit the world's foremost Elamite sites is by taxi from Shush. Visit Haft Tappeh first as the museum is a good primer for Choqa Zanbil. In reverse you'd find Haft Tappeh's lumpy ziggurats rather an anticlimax. If the new road is open it's a brilliant idea to continue from Choqa Zanbil to Shushtar.

<Sights>

- Haft Tappeh

• museum(admission IR20,000)

- Choqa Zanbil : One of Iran's Unesco World Heritage sites, Choqa Zanbil's magnificent brick ziggurat(admission IR30,000) is the best surviving example of Elamite architecture anywhere.

• The Ziggurat

• Around the Ziggurat

∙ Gate of Untash Gal

∙ tomb chambers

∙ Elamite royal tombs

<Getting There & Away>

The Apadana Hotel in Shush can arrange a taxi for no more than you'd pay on the street. Typical cost via Haft Tappeh is IR65,000 return (or IR80,000 if you continue one way to Shushtar), plus IR15,000 per hour waiting time. There's no public transport whatever. Go to Ahvaz and take a bus(10hours) to Shiraz.

5. Shiraz(071, pop 1,206,800 elevation 1491m)

Shiraz is a city of sophistication and has always been celebrated as the heartland of Persian culture.

<Orietation>

The main street of Shiraz is the wide, tree-lined Karim Khan-e Zand Blvd(often shortened simply to Zand). This boulevard runs about as far east and west as you would want to go without leaving Shiraz. Most of the things to see, and nearly all the hotels, are along here or within walking distance, so this is a street you'll keep coming back to.

The old city and the commercial centre of Shiraz are south of the Khoshk River, while the smarter residehtial areas are to the north. The modern univercity buildings and dormitories are on a steep hill in the northwest of town. The city centre is Shohada Sq(still widely known as Shahrdari Sq), on Zand.

<Information>

- Bookshops

• Bookshop(Bazar-e Vakil)

• Armagh-e Hafez Bookshop : Probably the best bookshop in Shiraz.

• Persepolis Bookshop(233-8200; Rudaki St)

- Emergency

• Dr Faqihi Hospital(235-1091; Zand Blvd)

• Police Headquarters(236-4998; Shohada Sq)

• Tourist police(Karim Khan-e Zand Blvd)

- Internet Access

• Ferdous Internet(Park Hotel Ln)

• Maz Coffee Net(628-6081; Mollasadra Passage, Molla Sadra St; per hr IR9000)

• Shiraz Net Cafe(233-7989; Karim Khan-e Zand Blvd; per hr IR20,000)

- Money

• Bank Melli(Karim Khan-e Zand Blvd)

• Chahtoosi Exchange(222-2580; Park Hotel Ln)

• Zand Exchange(222-2854; Karim Khan-e Zand Blvd)

- Post

• DHL(627-6771; 2nd fl, Mollasadra Passage, Molla Sadra St)

• Main Post Office(Taleqani St)

- Telephone Office(Hejrat St)

- Tourist Information Office(Karim Khaz-e Zand Blvd)

- Travel Agencies

• Park Taxi Service(222-5544; Zand Blvd near Shohada Sq)

• Pars Tourist Agency(222-3163,0917-111-8514; www.key2persia.com; Karim Khan-e Zand Blvd)

• Mohajeri & Co International Travel & Tours(222-7427; www.mohajeri,com; 6 Karim Khan-e Zand Blvd)

- Visa Extensions : Aliens Office(Valiasr Sq)

<Sights>

- Arg-e Karim Khani(Citadel of Karim Khan; 222-1423; Shohada Sq; admission IR30,000)

- Pars Museum(222-4151; Karim Khan Zand Blvd)

- Regent's Mosque(Masjed-e Vakil; admission IR15,000)

- Bazar-e Vakil(Bazar-e Vakil)

- Martyr's Mosque(Masjed-e Shohada; Ahmadi Sq)

- Mausoleum of Shah-e Cheragh(Mausoleum of the King of the Lamp or Bogh'e-ye Shah-e Cheragh; Ahmado Sq; 222-2158)

- Jameh-ye Atigh Mosque

- Madraseh-ye Khan(Dastqeib St)

- Nasor-ol-Molk Mosque(off Dastqeib St; admission IR15,000)

- Anglican Church of St Simon the Zealot(Kelisa-ye Moqaddas-e Sham'un-e Ghayur)

- Armenian Church(Kelisa-ye Arananeh)

- Imamzadeh-ye Ali Ebn-e Hamze(222-3353; Hafez St)

- Aramgah-e Hafez(Tomb of Hafez; Golestan Blvd; admission IR30,000)

- Aramgha-e Sa'di(Tomg of Sa'di; Bustan Blvd; admission IR30,000)

- Bagh-e Naranjestan(Orange Garden; Dastqeib St; admission IR30,000)

- Bagh-e Eram(Garden of Paradise; Daneshju Blvd; admission IR40,000)

- Kakh-e Eram(Eram Palace)

- Darvazeh-ye Quran(Quran Gateway; Quran Sq)

<Sleeping>

- Budget

• Anvari Hotel(233-7591; Anvari St; d IR90,000)

• Esteghlal Hotel(222-7728; Dehnadi St; tw without/with bathroom IR50,000 /65,000)

• Zand Hotel(222-2949; Rudaki Ave; d IR50,000)

• Toos Hotel(224-7261; Rudaki Ave; d IR50,000)

• Darya Hotel(222-1778; tw IR65,000) Among the best

• Saadi Hotel(222-5126; tw IR70,000)

• Hashemi Guest House(222-5271; d IR57,500)

- Midrange

• (our pick) Shiraz Eram Hotel(230-0814; www.eramhotel.com; Karim Khan-e Zand Blvd; d with breakfast US$40)

<Eating>

- Fast Food

• Nikan(222-9365; Karim Khan-e Zand Blvd)

• 110 Hamburgers(Anvari St)

- Restaurants

• (our pick) Yord Restaurant(625-6774; meals IR40,000) about 8km northwest of the city centre

• Hammam-e Vakil(222-6467; off Taleqani St; meals IR40,000)

• Shater Abbas Restaurant(227-1612; Azadi Blve, Khakshenasi St; meals IR40,000)

• Haji Baba Restaurant(233-2563; Zand Blvd; meals IR35,000)

• Restaurant Hatam(222-1809; Piruzi St; meals IR25,000)

• subrerranean restaurant(Piruzi St; meals IR15,000)  kebabs and a couple of good khoreshts

• Pat Restaurant(Paramount Sq; meals IR55,000)

• Soofie Traditional Restaurant(661-573; Afif Abad St;meals IR55,000)

• Teen Restaurant(229-6472; Saheli-ye Gharbi St; meals IR40,000)

- Hotel Restaurants

• Sarve Naz Restaurant(230-0814; 1st fl, Shiraz Eram Hotel, Karim Khan-e Zand Blvd; meals IR35,000)

• Apadana Restaurant(224-7128; Rudaki Ave; meals IR45,000)

<Drinking>

- Teahouses

• Towhid Teahouse(Ferdosi St) dizi for IR6000 or kebabs grilled on the pavement

• Aramgah-e Hafez Teahouse(Golestan Blvd) Pots of tea cost IR3000, dizi IR12,000 at lunchtime

- Cafe

• Jazireh Coffee Shop(229-9761; Daneshju Sq)

• Ghoroob Coffee Shop(229-8027; Azadi Blvd)

<Shopping>

- Bazar-e Vakil

<Getting There & Away>

- Air

• Gulf Air(230-1962; Zand Blvd) : Dubai(IR660,000), Doha(IR620,000), Bahrain(IR570,000), Kuwait(IR720,000) All flights take under 90 minutes.

• flight information number(721-8888; the airport), Iran Air(233-0041; cnr Zand Blvd & Faqihi St), Iran Aseman(230-8841; Zand Blvd) : Ahvaz(IR169,000, 1 weekly), Estahan(IR144,000, daily), Tehran(IR232,000, several daily), Bushehr(IR144,000, 1 weekly), Kish(IR150,000, 2 weekly)

- Bus & Minibus

• Carandish bus terminal(Teminal-e Bozorg; 730-1654; Salman-e Farsi Blvd)

Ahvaz(Mercedes/Volvo IR22,250/40,000, 10hr), Bandar-e Abbas(IR24,000/40,000, 10hr), Bandar-e Langeh(IR29,000/45,000, 12hr), Bushehr(IR12,000/20,000, 5hr), Esfahan(IR18,250/30,000, 8hr), Hamadan(IR31,250/44,000,15hr), Kerman(IR21,000 /30,000, 8hr), Kermanshah(IR39,000/60,000, 18hr), Tabriz(IR50,000/75,000, 24hr), Tehran(IR33,500/40,000, 13-18hr), Yazd(IR16,000/26,000, 7hr), Aahedan(IR60,000, 17hr).

• It's easiest to check and buy your ticket from the Iran Peyma(Taavoni No 1; 222-3888, Zand Blvd) office near the corner Sa'di St, or the nearby Pars Tourist Agency(222-3163; Zand Blvd).

- Savari : Savaris for regional town such as Kazerun, Firuz Abad and Marvdasht(for Persepolis) go from outside the Carandish terminal on a semi-regular basis.

<Getting Around>

- To/From The Airport : a private taxi-to or from the city centre should cost about IR10,000.

- Bus & Minibus

• No 2(from near the corner of Zand Blvd and Sa'di St and passes the corner of Golestan and Salman-Farsi Blvds(from where you can walk to the Carandish bus terminal), Hafez's tomv and finishes outside Sa'di's tomb.

• Bus tickets cost IR200 for a short trip, IR300 for the longer trip around the city, and in a first for Iran, you don't need to buy a ticket in advance, just pay once you are on board the vehicle.

- Taxis : Share taxis ply the streets for IR500 to IR1000 per trip. Chartering a taxi will cost from IR3000 to IR5000 depending on the distance.

6. Persepolis(Takht-e Jamshid; admission gateway30,000)

This magnificent site embodies the greatest successes of the ancient Achaemenid Enpire. The monumental staircases, exquisite reliefs, immense columns and imposing gateways leave you in no doubt that this was indeed the finest jewel in the empire's crown.

<Tours>

- Pars Tourist Agency(222-3163; www.key2persia.com; Karim Khan-e Zand Blvd, Shiraz) Pars organises daily trips(not tours) to Persepolis for US$8 per person.

<Sights>

- The Persepolis Complex

• Entering the city : Grand Stairway, Xerxes' Gateway, Gate of All Nations

• Palacd of 100 Columns : Court of Apadana, Unfinished Gate, Hall of Columns

• Apadana Palace & Staircase

• Royal Palaces : Palace of Darius 1, Palacd of Artaxerxes 3, Xerxes' Palace

• Central Palace : Xerxes' Hall of Audience

• Haremsara(Museum) admission IR30,000

• Treasury & Tombs

• sound & light show : A sound and light show takes place intermittently, and only in summer, at around 8:30pm. Ask before you leave Shiraz whether it will be on, and remember that if you leave the site you might have to pay another IR30,000 to get back in for the show.

- Naqsh-e Rostam & Naqsh-e Rajab

• Naqsh-e Rostam(admission IR20,000)

• Naqsh-e Rajab(admission IR10,000)

- Pasargadae(admission IR20,000)

<Eating>

- There are no sleeping and few eating options at Persepolis.

- The best food is found at Parsian Restaurant(0917-128-2942; meals IR35,000; dinner; lunch & dinner in summer), about 2km south of the entrance to Persepolis on the road to Shiraz. Uts faux-grotto style is a bit cheesy, but the food(including bademjun and the interesting sounding Bulgarian BBQ) is good, portions large and it's all for a reasonable price.

- About 1km before Naqsh-e Rajab, Laneh Tavvus Restaurant(0917-128-0058; meals IR30,000) is not bed.

<Getting There & Away>

- Bus & Shared Taxi

• It is possible to reach Persepolis by public transport. Take a minkbus from the southern side of the Carandish bus terminal in Shiraz to Marvdasht(IR2000,42km, every hour or so). From the last stop, walk about 1km along the main road to Imam Khomeini Sq, from where you should be able to find a shared taxi to Persepolis(IR2000,12km). If not, a private taxi should cost about IR10,000.

• Returning from the site, there are always plenty of vehicles lurking outside the entrance-either hitch a ride or take a taxi back to Marvdasht.

- Private Taxi : The easiest way to get to Persepolis is to charter a taxi from Shiraz that will also allow you to visit the other sites of Naqsh-e Rostam and even Pasafgadae. Expect to pay about IR120,000 for a six-hour trip to Persepolis, and IR220,000 for an 11-hour day seeing all four sites.

7. Abarqu

This historic town on the road between Yazd and Shiraz is a good off-the-tourist- trail stop. There are several attractions including a huge ice house, the 11th-century Gonbad Ali dome, the Jameh Mosque and a 4000-plus-year-old cypress tree. The main draw, however, is the Khan-e Aghazzadeh, a Qajar-era mansion that is being slowly restored into a hotel; look for the distindtive two-storey badgir.

<Sleeping>

- Hotel Pouya Tourist(0352-682-1030; d IR176,000) on the left as you come into town from the east, also has a decent restaurant.

8. Yazd(0351, pop 450,000 elevation 1230m)

<Information>

- Bookshops

• Parisan Hotel(525-3111; Meysam St)

• Safaiyeh Hotel(824-2812; Shahid Timsar Fallahi St)

- Emergency

• Afshar Hospital(525-5011; Jomhuri-ye Eslami Blvd)

• Dr Mogibiyah Hospital(624-0061; Kashani St)

• Police Headquarters(110; Azadi Sq)

- Internet Access

• Aftab Gardan(626-8470; Shahid Raja'i St; per hr IR5000)

• Issatis.net(623-1425; www.issatis.net; Kashani St; per hr IR6000)

• Sabre Caffe Net(622-3505; Imam Khomeini St)

- Internet Resources

• Yazd City(www;yazdcity.com)

• Yazd.com(www.yazd.com)

- Medical Services

• Chamran 24-hours Pharmacy(626-6900; Farrokhi St)

- Money

• Amin Money Exchange(626-0745; Imam Khomeini St)

• Abas Salari Gold Shop(Qeyam St)

• Bank Melli(Shohada Crossroads)

• Bank Tejarat(Qeyam St)

- Post

• Main Post Office(Ghasem Abad St)

• Post Office(Imam Khomeini St)

- Thlephone

• Main Telephone Office(Motahhari St)

• Telephone Office(Teleqani Blvd)

- Tourist Information

• Tourist Information Office(621-6542-5, 0913-351-4460; yazguide@yahoo.com; Ziaee Sq)

- Travel Agencies

• Saadat Seyr Travel & Tour Agency(626-6599;saadatseyr@pishgaman.com; 21/1 Imamzadeh-ye Ja'far St)

• Yazd Seir Tour & Travel Agency(724-5116; www.yazdseir.com; Motahhari St)

- Visa Extensions

• Police Department of Aliens Affairs(Rah Arian Blvd)

<Sights>

- Old City

Yazd's old city is one of the oldest towns on earth, addording to Unesco, and is the perfect place to get a feel for the region's rich history.

- Jameh Mosque(Masjed-e Jameh St)

- Bogheh-ye Seyed Rokanddin(Mausolem of Seyed Roknaddin; off Masjed-e Jameh St)

- Khan-e Lari

- Alexander's Prison(admission IR10,000, incl entry to the Tomb of the 12 Imams)

• Moslem Mirzazadeh(621-0075; moslemmirzazadeh@yahoo.com)

- Amir Chakhmaq Complex(admission IR15,000)

- Bagh-e Doulat Abad(admission IR30,000)

- Zoroastrian Sites

Yazd is the heartland of an Iranian Zoroastrian community that's becoming ever-smaller in this Islamic stronghold.

- Ateshkadeh(Sacred Eternal Flame)

- Towers of Silence(Dakhmeh-ye Zartoshtiyun)

<Get Lost In Yazd Walking Tour P>

- Distance : about 5km

- Duration : three to five hours, depending on how often you get lost

1. Amir Chakhkaq Complex

2. Amir Chakhmaq Mosque

3. Yazd Water Museum

4. Hazireh Mosque

5. Bogheh-ye Seyed Roknaddin

6. Silk Road Hotel

7. Jameh Mosque

8. water reservoir

9. Khan-e Lari

10. Alexander's Prison

11. Tomb of the 12 Imams

12. Tourist Information Office

13. Hosseinieh

14. Madraseh-e Kamalieh

15. Panjeh-ali Bazar

16. Malek-o Tojjar

17. Hamum-e Khan

<Sleeping>

Yazd is becoming one of the best places in Iran in which to stay in a traditional Iranian home.

- Budget

• Hotel Amir Chakhmagh(626-9823; Amir Chakhmaq Sq; r per person IR30,000)

• Aria Hotel(626-0411; 10Favardin St; tw IR70,000)

• Beheshty Hotel(626-5517; Imam Khomeini St; d IR50,000)

- Midrange

• (our pick) Malek-o Tojjar(626-1478; Panjeh-ali Bazar Qeyam St; d US$45)

• Silk Road Hotel(625-2730; touristicplace@yahoo.com; Masjed Jameh Ave; d US$45)

• Kohan Kashane(621-0928; off Imam Khomeini St; dm IR35,000, d with breakfast US$22)

<Eating>

- Malek-o Tojjar(626-1478; Panjeh-ali Bazar,off Qeyam St; meals IR35,000)

- Silk Road Hotel Restaurant(625-2730; Masjed Jameh Ave; meals IR40,000)

- Hamum-e Khan Restaurant(Chaykhuneh-ye San'ati; 627-0366; meals IR40,000)

- Restoran-e Hanar-ye Sabz(32-824; Mazari Lane; meals IR40,000)

- Keremat Teashop(Imam Khomeini St)

- Baharestan Restaurant(Beheshti Sq; meals IR20,000)

- Darvish Pizza(626-9767; Imam Khomeini St)

- Sito Coffee Shop & Pizza(622-0888; Amir Chakhmaq Sq; pizzas IR16,000)

- Nemoner Sandwich

- Amiran Paludeh

- Yazd Traditional Cookie(525-3673; Jomhuri-ye Eslami Blvd)

<Shopping>

many shops aroud Beheshti Sq.

<Getting There & Away>

- Air : Yazd airport(199), Tourist Information Office(523p8037, 0913-353-8914), Iran Air(622-2080; Motahhari St)

• Mashhad(IR237,000, 80min, twice-weekly)

• Tehran(IR186,300, 70min, twice-daily, 8am and 7pm)

- Bus & Minibus

• main bus terminal(Rah Ahan Blvd) about 3km southwest of the town centre, accessible by shared taxi from Beheshti and Azadi Sqs.

• Bam(IR20,000, 9hr), Bandar-e Abbas(IR28,000, 11hr), Esfahan(IR11,500, 5hr), Kerman(IR13,150, 6hr), Mashhad(IR45,000, 16hr), Shiraz(IR16,400, 7hr), Tabas(IR17,850, 8hr), Tabas(IR17,850, 8hr), Tehran(IR24,800, 10hr), Zahedan(IR31,400, 14hr)

- Train

• train station(tel 139) : next to the main bus terminal. Get here by shared taxi from Beheshti or Azadi Sqs. Train tickets can be boutht in advance at the travel agencies in Yazd.

• Tehran(2nd.1st class IR23,600/38,500, 8hr), via Kashan and Qom. Kerman(2nd/1st class IR15,000/25,000, 5hr), Bandar-e Abbas(1st class only, IR48,200, 9hr30min)

<Getting Aroud>

- To/From the Airport

Take a shared taxi from Enqelab-e Eslami Sq to the airport for about IR2000, or a private taxi for IR15,000.

- Taxi

The standard fare in a shared taxi anywhere around town is about IR1000. For private taxis, the fare will be about IR6000 to the bus and train terminals. Taxis can be chartered for around IR18,000 per hour.

9. Meybod

About 52km north of Yazd, Meybod boasts a thoroughly restored old post office, a caravanserai with a splendid covered qanat, and a Safavid-era ice house nearby in the west of town. Narein castle(admission IR10,000), in the centre of town, is worth a quick look.

As you enter town be sure to stop at the bizarre circular bird tower. It was once used to house up to 4000 pigeons whose guano was collected as fertiiser. The tower has been meticulously restored and today about 100 pigeins swing from strings in a crude testament to the taxidermist's art. Avoid taking anything mind-altering before coming here...

10. Chak Chak

This is the most important Zoroastrian pilgrimage site in Iran. About 72km northwest of Yazd on the southern fringes of the Dasht-e Lut, many of the buildings are midern and uninspoing. However, the Pir-e-Sabz fire temple cut into the cliff-side at the top has a wonderful brass door that's embossed with the likeness of Zoroaster, and the location and views are suitably dramatic.

Chak Chak attracts thousands of pilgrims for an annual festival between June 14 and 18. Legend has it that after the Arab invasion in AD637 the Sassanian prindess Nikbanuh fled to this site. Short of water, she thew her staff at the cliff and water began dripping out-chak, chak means drip, drip.

11. Kharanaq

The virtually deserted and crumbling village of Kharanaq, on the side of a hill about 85km north of Yazd, is a captivating place to wander around. Parts are believed to be more than 1000 years old, and it's been occupied in some form for more than 4000 years. The Qajar-era mosque, 17th-century shaking minaret and caravanserai on the edge of town have all been restored. You'll need a key to get into these, however, and you'll need a guide to arrange that.

Many of the buildings are falling down and at least one tourist has fallen through the roof here, so be careful where you step. From the village you can walk about 250m down the valley below to an ancient aqueduct, built to irrigate the surrounding fields. Photographers will love the shots of the village through the arches of the bridge.

12. Esfahan(031, pop 1,598,000)

Estahan is Iran's masterpiece, the jewel of ancient Persia and one of the finest cities in the Iskamic world.

<Maps>

A large, unwieldy but largely accurate map of Esfahan from Gita Shenasi is available in bookstores for IR7000. The Tourist Information Office(222-8541; Imam Sq) prduces a basic but useful map with deccriptions of the city's highlights in English, French, German, Italian, and Spanish.

<Information>

- Bookshops

• Chehel Sotun Palace Bookshop(Ostandari St)

• Kowsaf International Hotel(624-0230; Mellat Blvd)

• Naqshe Jahan Boolshop(0931-310-7901; Imam Sq)

- Emergency

• Ambulance(229-2222 or 115)

• Tourist Police(24hr 668-0046/7; Chahar Bagh-e Abbasi)

- Internet Access

• Central Library of Esfahan(222-3698; Goldasteh Ave; per hr IR5000)

• Iran Net Cybercafe(668-1868; Chahar Bagh-e Baia St; per hr IR9000)

• Rose Internet(221-1222; Imam Hossein Sq; per hr IR9000)

• Nomad Carpet Shop(Imam Sq)

• Aladdin Carpets(221-1461)

- Medical Services

• Al-Zahra Hospital(669-2180; Soffen St)

• Dr Hosseini Pharmacy(222-3511; Shahid Madani Sr; 24hr)

• Esfahan Hospital(223-0015; Shams Abadi)

- Money

• Bank Mellat(Imam Hossein Sq)

• Bank Melli(Sepah St)

• Bank Tejarat(Enqelab-e Eslami Sq)

- Post

• DHL(222-4568; Shahid Medani Ave)

• Main Post Office(Neshat St)

• Post Office(Imam Sq)

- Telephone

• Central Telephone Office(Beheshti St)

- Tourist Information Office(222-8541;fax661-8660; Imam Sq)

- Travel Agencies

• Iran Travel & Tourism Tour(222-3010; irantraavel1964@hotmail.com; Shahid Medani St)

- Visa Extensions

• Department of Foreign Affairs office(668-8166; Chahar Bagh-e Bia, 2nd Lane)

<Sights>

- Jameh Mosque(Masjed-e Jameh or Friday Mosque; admission IR30,000)

- Bazar-e Bozorg(Great Bazaar)

- Imam Sq(Naqsh-e Jahan Sq; Meydan-e Imam)

- Imam Mosque(Masjed-e Imam; admission IR30,000)

- Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque(Masjed-e Sheikh Lotfollah; admission IR30,000)

- Ali Qapu Palace(admission IR30,000)

- Chehel Sotun Palace(Chehel Sotun; Ostandari St; admission IR30,000)

- Museum

• Decorative Arts Museum of Iran(Ostandari St; admission IR20,000)

• Natural History Museum(Ostandari St; admission IR30,000)

• Museum Behesht Palace(admission IR6000)

- Hasht Behesht Palace(admission IR20,000)

- Madraseh-ye Chahar Bagh(Madraseh-ye Mazadar-e Shah or Theological School of the Shah's Mother;Chahar Bagh Abbasi St;admission IR30,000)

- Zayadeh River Bridges

- Si-o Seh Bridge(Pol-e Si-o-Seh, Bridge of 33 Arches or Allahverdi Khan Bridge)

- Chubi Bridge

- Khaju Brdge

- Shahrestan Bridge

- Armenian Quarter

- Vank Cathedral(Kelisa-ye Vank; Kelisa St; admission IR15,000)

- Church of Bethlehem(Kelisa-ye Bethlehem;Nazar St), Church of St Mary(Kelisa-ye Maryam)

- Manar Jomban(Shaking Minarets; admission IR30,000)

- Ateshkadeh-ye Esfahan(Esfahan Fire Temple; admission IR20,000)

- Golestan-e Shohada(Rose Garden of Martyrs)

<'Half the World' Walking Tour>

- Distance : about 7km

- Duration : four to seven hours

• Hakim Mosque

• Bazar-e Bozorg

• Madraseh-ye Nimurvand

• Jameh Mosque

• bird market

• Minaret of the Mosque of Ali

• Mahsoleum of Harun Vilayet

• Madraseh-ye Sadr

• Imam Sq

• Qeysarieh Portal

• Qeysarieh Tea Shop

• Imam Mosque

• Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque

• Ali Qapu Palace

• Chehel Sotun Palace

• Azadegan Teahouse

• Bastani Restaurant

<Sleeping>

- Budget

• (our pick) Aria Hotel(222-7224; fax233-2441; Shahid Medani St; d with breakfast US$20)

• Amir Kabir Hostel(222-7273; mrziaee@hotmail.com; Chahar Bagh Abbasi; dm/tw IR25,000/70,000)

• Shahrzad Hostel(fax336-3610; Masjed-e Sayyed St; tw IR70,000)

• Persia Hotel(fax222-3274; Chahar Bagh Abbasi St; d IR160,000)

• Shad Hotel(221-8621;fax220-4264; Chahar Bagh Abbasi St; r IR68,000)

• Sahel Hotel(222-1702;fax220-2994; Chahar Bagh Abbasi St; tw IR180,000)

• Pars Hotel(221-9072; Chahar Bagh Abbasi St; tw US$20)

• Tous Hotel(222-1599; toos@yahoo.com.; d IR160,000)

- Mid-Range

• Sadaf Hotel(fax223-6692;www.sadafhotel.com; Hafez St; d US$65)

• Poland Park Hotel(661-2785;fax661-2788; A'ineh Khuneh Blvd; d US$30)

<Eating>

- Fast Food & Kababis

• Only Kabab Kababi(Hafez St)

• Fereni Hafez(Hafez St)

• ash-e reshte place(Chagh Bagh Abbarley) a bowl of ash(a type of soup made from yogurt and barley) with bread is IR4000.

- Restaurants

• Bastani Restaurant(Imam Sq; meals IR30,000)

• Traditional Sofreh Khaneh(221-9068; Imam Sq; meals IR35,000) The Esfahani biriani(IR12,500) is recommended.

• Restoran-e Sa'di(222-0237; Chahar Bagh Abbasi St; meals IR20,000) kebabs(IR16,000), khoresht less than IR10,000.

• Nobahar Restahrant(221-0800; Chahar Bagh Abbasi St; meals IR25,000)

• Restaurant Shahrzad(220-4490; Abbas Abad St; meals IR50,000) One of Esfahan's best restaurants. The fesenjun(IR22,800) is mouthwatering.

• Maharaja Restaurant(222-4985; Enqelab-e Eslami Sq; meals IR40,000)

• Pizza Jolfa Armenian Restaurant(Kelisa St; meals IR25,000) pizzas and pastas(from IR15,000), Armenian dolmehs(rice wrapped in vine leaves) and zabon(about IR20,000)

• Restoran-e Khayyam(Nazar St; meals IR17,000)

- Hotel Restaurants

• Sadaf Hotel(223-6692; Hafez St; meals IR35,000) There's steak with mushroom sauce(IR25,000), tomato soup(IR8000) for a change, and tasty kebabs(about IR20,000)

• Khangostar Restaurant(627-8989; Hakim Nezami St; meals IR45,000) Julfa Hotel. some say this is the best restaurant in Esfahan. vegetable kebab(IR12,000), chicken cordon bleu(IR32,000)

- Tasty Treats

Many places along Chahar Bagh Abbasi St serve ice cream; others sell delicious fruit shakes for about IR3000 for a small cup - try Isdman(Chahar Bagh Abbasi St) for one of the best.

Esfahan's famous speciality is gaz, a deliciout kind of nougat usually mixed with chopped pistachios or other nuts. It isn't generally served in restaurants, but you can easily pick it up in the confectionery shops along Chahar Bagh Abbasi St or around Imam Sq.

<Drinking>

- Si-o Seh Bridge : There are outdoor teahouse underneath both ends of the bridge.

- Chubi Bridge

- Qeysarieh Tea Shop(Imam Sq)

- Azadegan Teahouse(Chaykhuneh-ye Azadegan; 221-1225)

- Bame Sahel Teahouse(Chahar Bagh Abbasi St)

- Abbasi Hotel Teahouse(Shahid Medani St)

<Shopping>

- Bazar-e Honar(Chahar Bagh Abbasi St)

- Iran Handocrafts Organisation(222-9333; northern end of Imam Sq; 222-0916; opposite Abbasi Hotel)

- Bazaf-e Bozorg

- Aladdin Carpets(221-1461; Imam Sq)

- Fallahi Minatures(220-4613; Shahid Medani St)

- Nomad Carpet Shop(221-9275; nomadshop@yahoo.com; Imam Sq)

- Paradise Carpets(220-4860;Imam Sq)

<Getting There & Away>

- Air : Iran Air office(222-8200; www.iranair.com; Shahid Medani St) in the shopping complex opposite Abbasi Hotel

• Tehran(IR144,000, several daily) etc.

- Bus : Kaveh bus terminal(441-4375). There are two main bus terminal-the Soffeh bus terminal(668-8341/2) in the far south, and the Kaveh bus terminal in the north. Both terminals have buses to most destinations outside Esfahan province, althouth the Kaveh terminal is mort convenient from the cehtre of town and has slightly more bus company offices,  There are no buses to Kashan from Soffeh.

• Kashan(IR8000, 4hr30min)

• Mashhad(IR75,000, 22hr)

• Tehran(IR17,500/30,000, 7hr)

• Ahvaz(IR35,500/54,000, 14hr)

• Shiraz(IR18,000/30,000, 8hr)

• Yazd(IR11,500/22,000, 5hr) etc.

- Minibus & Sabari

For destinations around Esfahan there are two minibus terminals. For Shahr-e Kord(IR3500,2hr,107km), head for the Zayandeh Rud minibus terminal(775-9182), from where minibuses leave when full, usually every hour or so. To get to Zayandeh Rud terminal, take a shared taxi west from just south of the Si-o-Sdh Bridge(IR3000).

From the Jey minibus terminal(521-6607), there are at least five departures each day  to Yazd(IR10,000,6hr,316km). To get to the Jey minibus terminal, take a shared taxi from Takhti Junction(IR1500).

Savaris leave from outside the terminals far more frequently than minibuses but for about four times the price, susc as Sahr-e Kord(IR12,500, one hour and 20minutes).

- Train

There is a daily train between Esfahan and Tehran(IR30,300,7hr, 487km) that leaves at 9:50pm and stops at Kashan. Thd train station(668-8001) is way out to the east of the city. To get here, catch a bus from outside Kowsar International Hotel; ask for the istgah-e ghatah and you'll be put on the right bus. Be at the bus stop well over an hour before your train is due to depart.

<Getting Around>

- To/From the Airport : The airport is way out of town(northeast) and there isn't an airport bus service. To get here, take any bus(IR250) heading east along Jamal-od-Din Abdolrazagh St from Takhti Junction. Get off the bus at Ahmad Abad Sq where the small Sorush bus station has buses to the airport(IR300). Form the airport, ask around for any shared taxis heading into the city, from where you might need to get another to your hotel. A private taxi in either direction will cost about IR30,000.

- Bus & Minibus

Buses and minibuses leave the local bus station, near Chehel Sotun Palace, to every direction every few minutes. Rides cost IR250 or IR500 depending in the distance. You buy tickets at the booths along or just off Chahar Bagh Abbasi St. The No 301 bus links the Kaveh and Soffeh bus terminals(IR500).

13. Kashan(0361, pop 170,000)

<Orientation>

The centre of town is Kamal-ol-Molk Sq, from where most of Kashan's sites can be reached on foot. For sites along the road to Baghe Tarikhi - ye Fin(Fin Gardens)- variously known as Fin Rd and Amir Kabir Rd - you'll probably need to take a taxi.

<Information>

- Emergency

• Naghavi Hospital(22021; Shahid Mohammad Ali-ye-Raja'i St)

• Police(110)

• Razavi Pharmacy(444-554; Abazar St) Opposite Sayyah Hotel

- Internet Access

• Central City Cafenet(0912-261-0911; Shahid Mohammad Ali-ye-Raja'i St; per hr IR20,000)

- Money

• Bank Melli(Mir Ahmad St)

<Sights>

- Bazaar

• Kashan's bazaar

• Hammam-e Khan(442-4282)

- Traditional Houses

- Khan-e Borujerdi(IR20,000)

- Khan-e Tabatabei(422-0032; admission IR20,000)

- Khan-e Ameriha(admission IR20,000)

- Khan-e Abbasin(admission IR20,000)

- Sultan Mir Ahmed Hammam(422-0038; Alavi St; admission IR20,000)

- Old City Walls

- Agha Bozorg Mosque & Madraseh(admission IR25,000)

- Zeyarat-e Habb Ibn-e Musa(Imam Khomeini St)

- Soltaniyeh Mosque

- Imamzadeh-ye Abu Lolou(Amir Kabir Rd)

- Shahzadeh-ye Ibrahim(Amir Kabir Rd)

- Tappeh-ye Seyalk(Sialk,Seyalk Mound; off Amir Kabir Rd)

- Bagh-e Tarikhi-ye Fin(Fin Garden; Amir Kabir Rd; admission IR30,000)

<Sleeping>

- Golestan Guesthouse(446-793; Motahhari Sq; d IR80,000)

- Mosaferkhuneh-ye Gochariyan(445-495; Abazar St; d IR80,000)

- Kowsar Hotel(560-322;fax560-323; Qoth-e Ravandy Blvd; apt IR450,000)

- Sayyah Hotel(444-535; www.sayyahhotel.com; Abazar St; d with breakfast US$25)

- Amir Kabir Hotel(3-0091;fax3-0338; Aonr Kabir Rd; tw US$53)

<Eating>

- Delpazir Restaurant(445-322,0913-161-0350; Ayatollah Kashani St; meals IR40,000)

- Restorna-e Luksashahr(454-745; Shahid Mohammad Ali-ye-Raja'i St; meals IR30,000)

- Tabatabei Traditional Restaurant(422-6106; Khan-e Tabatabei; meals IR30,000)

- Javed Traditional Restaurant(Amir Kabir Rd; meals IR40,000)

- Sayyah Restaurant(444-535; Abazar St; meals IR25,000)

<Getting There & Away>

- Bus, Minibus & Savari

• bus terminal(Molla Sadra Blvd; north of the city centre), Esfahan(IR8000, 4hr30min), Tehran(IR8000, 3hr30min)

• Minibuses to Qom(IR5000, 2hr) leave from the southwestern corner of Valiasr Sq(Madkhal Sq).

- Train

• The train station(45-0010) is with walking distance of the city centre, to the north.

• There are three trains a day between Kashan and Tehran(IR13,500, 3hr30min, 217km). There are also daily trains to Esfahan(4hr,270km) Yazd(6hr,475km) and Kerman(10hr,711km), but all leave between about midnight and 3am.

14. Abyaneh(0362)

One of the most fascinating villages in the country has to be Abyaneh. There are some magnificent views across the valley. Recognised by Unesco for its antiquity and uniqueness, the village provides the perfect antidote to the bustling cities-there ard barely any cars.

<Sights>

- Imamzadeh-ye Yahya

- Zeyaratgah shrine

- Jameh Mosque

- castles

<Sleeping & Eating>

- Abyaneh Hotel Restaurant(436-2223; bed per person with breakfast US$20; meals IR40,000) The fesenjun(IR23,000) is not bad.

<Getting There & Away>

Abyaneh is 82km from Kashan, and not easy to reach. The cheapest way is to take a regular minibus from Kashan towards Natanz(make sure the bus is not taking the road to Na'in) and get off at the sighposted turn-off. Then wait for another lift from whatever is passing for the remaining 22km. There are allegedly minibuses(IR5000) running directly between Abyaneh and Kashan, but even the locals don't know what times they leave(your best bet is the afternoon). Or you could always try hitching from outside the hotel.

Alternatively, chartering a taxi for a day from Kashan should cost about IR170,000, or IR120,000 for half a day. Ahmad Pourseyedi(30-321; outside Bagh-e Tarikhi-ye Fin) is a good option.  Tours to Abyaneh, with a picnic lunch, cost about IR200,000 for the day. If you can't find him, ask around af Fin Gardens-he lives nearby.

15. Tehran(021, pop about 14million)

<Maps>

The best one is the Tourist Map of Tehran by Ketab-e-Avval(IR90,000)

• Gita Shenasi Map shop(670-9335; www.gitaahenasi.com; 15 Valiasr Crossroads, Razi St, 15 Ostad Shahrivar St)

<Information>

- Bookshops

• Book City Hafez Store(880-5733; www.ourbooksite.com; 743 Nth Hafez St)

• Book City Niyavaran Store(228-5956; Shahid Bahoner St)

• Gulestan Bookshop(311-5416; Manucheri St)

• National Museum of Iran(670-2061; Si Tir St)

• Sa'd Abad Museum Complex

- Emergency

• Ambulance(115)

• Fire Brigade(125)

• Iran Emdad(643-6662) A private ambulance service

• Police(110)

- Internet Access

• Ferdosi Coffeenet(Ferdosi Sq, Enqelab Ave; per hr IR9000)

• Pars Internet(392-4173; 369 Ferdosi St; per hr IR9000)

• Rahyabnet Cafenet(880-1315; 40 Keshavarz Blvd, 4th fl; per hr IR12,000)

• Sepanta Internet(670-1725; Si Tir St; per hr IR10,000)

- Internet Resources

• Farsinet(www.farsinet.com/Tehran)

• Old Tehran(www.ghandchi.com/iranscope/Fun/OldTehran/ot)

• Tehran24(www.tehran24.com)

• Tehran Avenue(www.tehranavenue.com)

• Tehran Metro(www.tehranmetro.com)

• Tehran Times(www.tehrantimes.com)

- Left Luggage

Your hotel is the best option for leaving luggage. There is a left-luggage office at Mehrabad International Airport charging IR12,500 per 24 hours for a large bag and IR17,000 a day for a carpet.

- Medical Services

• Dentists : Dr Fereidoun Badal(884-0193; 18 Kamkar St, Mirzaye Shirazi, 1st fl)

• Arad Hospital(760-1001; Somayyeh St, btwn Shariati Ave & Bahar Sts)

• Day Hospital(801-7111; cnr Valiasr Ave & Tavanir St)

• Mehrad Hospital(874-7401; Motahhari Ave, Mir Embad St)

• Shohada Hotpital(271-8009; Tajrish Sq)

• Tehran Clinic(872-8113; Farahani St)

- pharmacy line(191)

- Mony

• Bank Melli(Central Branch; Ferdosi St)

• Bank Melli(Shariati St, Elahiyeh)

• Bank Tejarat(Nejatollahi St)

• Bank Sepah(Ferdosi Sq)

- Nessstands

• Enqelab Newsstand(Enqelab Ave)

• Ferdosi Newsstand(Ferdosi St)

- Post

• DHL(871-5906-9; 353 Dr Beheshti Ave)

• Main Post Office(Sa'di St)

- Telephone

• Pars Internet(392-4713; 369 Ferdosi St)

• Telephone office(Ekbatan St)

- Travel Agencies

• Asia2000 Travel Agency(889-6947-58; asia2000@sanapardaz.com; Nejatollahi St)

• Mohajeri Travel Agency(880-8302;fax 880-7113;Nejatollahi St)

• Taban Travel & Tourism(395-6560-1; taban@sanapardaz.com; Sarcheshmeh Cross, Amir Kabir St)

- Universities

• Tehran University(Enqelab Ave)

- Visa Extensions

• Disciplinary Force for Islamic Republic of Iran Department for Aliens Affairs building(880-0000;Valiasr Ave)

<Sights>

- Central & Southern Tehran

• Tehran Bazaar

• Imam Khomeini Mosque

• Golestan Palace compelx(311-3335-8; www.golestanpalace.org; Ark Sq; several tickets required)

• National Museum of Iran(Iran Bastan Museum; 670-2061; www.nationalmuseumofiran.com; Si Tir St; admission IR60,000)

• Museum of the Islamic Period(670-2061; Si Tir St; admission IR60,000)

• Malek Natoinal Museum and Library(672-6653; Imam Khomeini Sq, Bagh-e Melli Portico; admission IR10,000)

• 13 Aban Museum(Sizdah-e Aban; 670-1915; admission IR1000)

• National Jewels Museum(311-2369; Ferdosi St; admission IR30,000)

• Glass & Ceramics Museum(670-8153; Si Tir St; admission IR30,000)

• Madraheh va Masjed-e Sepahsalar(Masjed-e Motahari; Baharestan Sq, Mostafa Khomeini St)

• Iranian Photographers' Centre(880-7062/3; Somayyeh St; admission free)

• Us Den of Espionage(Taleqani Ave)

• Shohada Museum(Martyrs's Museum; cnr Taleqani Ave & Forsat St)

• Park-e Laleh(Keshavarz Blvd)

• Tehran Museum of Contemporary Art(896-5411; Kargar Ave; admission IR3000)

• Carpet Museum(896-7707; cnr Fatemi St & Kargar Ave; admission IR30,000)

- Valiasr Ave & Northern Tehran

• Sarkis Cathedral(889-7980;cnr Nejatollahi & Karim Khan-e Zand Sts)

• Park-e Mellat(Mellat Park; Valiasr Ave)

• Jaam-e Jam Food Court

- Greater Tehran

• Sa'd Abad Museum Complex(228-2031; www.saadabadpalace.org; Valiasr Ave, Taheri St; several tickets required) : To get to the museum complex, either walk or take a shared(or private) taxi the 1.5km from Tajrish Sq along Ja'fari St.

• Miyavaran Palace Museum(228-2050; www.niavaranpalace.org; Shahid Bahonar Sq, Niyavaran Ave) : Take a shared taxi east of Tajrish Sq(IR1000), and ask to be dropped off at Shahid Bahonar Sq, about 100m downhill from the entrance to the museum.

• Darakeh & Darband(the foothills of the Alborz Mountains and the walking trails) : The starting point for getting to either trail is the notthern of Tajrish Sq. To get to Darakeh take a shared taxi from Tahrish Sq(IR2500). At the end of Darakeh St yot'll be dropped in a square; the trail leads off from the northeastern corner. A private taxi costs about IR10,000.

• Park-e Jamshidiyeh

• Tochal Telecabin(Velenjak Telecabin; 240-4001-5; www.tochalcomplex.com; Velenjak Ave; admission IR50,000 for full journey) : From the northern side of Tajrish Sq, ask for a share taxi(IR2000) to Tochal Telecabin. From where the taxi drops you, a short walk leads through a car park to a stop from where you can walk or catch a bus(IR1000) to the telecabin ticket office.

• Reza Abbasi Musenm(863-001; www.rezaabbasimuseum.ir; 972 Shariati Ave; admission IR25,000)

• Azadi Monument(Freedom Monument; Azado Sq)

<Sleeping>

- Budget

• (out pick) Hotel Naderi(670-1872; Jomhuri-ye Eslami Ave; d US$20) probably the most atmospheric hotel in Tehran

• Hotel Khayyam(311-3757; www.hotelkhayyam.com; e Navidy Alley; tw US$25)

• Mashhad Hotel(311-3062; www.mashhadhotel.honestead.com; 416 Amir Kabir St; dm/tw IR25,000/50,000)

• Hotel Khazar Sea(311-3860; Amir Kabir St, Ohadi Ln; tw IR40,000)

• Hotel Sa'di(322-7653; Lalehzar St; d IR100,000)

• Hotel Arman(311-2323;fax392-0600; Sa'di St. Ekbatan St; tw with breakfast US$25)

- Mid-Range

• Atlas Hotel(890-6058; www.atlashotel.com; 206 Taleqani St; d US$52)

• Omid Hotel(641-4564; www.omidhotel.com; 20 East Nisrat Sr; d with breakfast US$58)

<Eating>

- Fast Food & Kababis

• Ferdosi Sinnati(670-0595; Ferdosi St; meals IR23,000)

• Tak Khal(Sa'di St; meals IR15,000)

• Dar-B-Dar Pizza(270-8185; Tajrish Sq, 21 Ja'fari Sr; large pizzas IR75,000)

• Boof(225-3262; Valiasr Ave; meals IR20,000)

• Tomato(671-1579; Jomhuri-ye Eslami Ave; pizzas IR20,000)

• nameless kababi(Valiasr Ave; dizi IR8000)

• Dik Dik(877-7811; Valiasr Ave; barbecued chicken

- Restaurant

• (out pick) Khayyam Traditional Restaurant(580-0760; Khayyam St; meals IR60,000) about 200m south of the Khayyam Metro station and opposite the Imamzadeh Seyyed Nasreddin Mosque(look for the dome). the special dizi is IR25,000, special kebab(IR50,000)

• Iranian Traditional Restaurant(Agha Bozorg; 890-0522; 28 Keshavarz Blvd; meals IR30,000) dizi(IR15,000)

• Azari Traditional Restaurant(Azari Coffeehouse; 537-3665; Rah-Ahan Sq, Valiasr Ave; meals IR50,000)

• Sofre Khane Sonnato Sangalag(671-8342; Park-e Shahr; meals IR45,000)

• Sofre Khaneh Sonatee Ali Ghapoo(877-7803; Gandhi Ave; meals IR65,000)

• Restaurant Shater Abas(311-5077; Sa'do St; meals IR30,000)

• Armenian Club(670-0521-2; 68 Khark St, cnr France Ave; meals IR50,000)

• Monsoon(879-1982; Gandhi Shopping Centre, Gandhi Ave; meals IR80,000) curry(IR50,000)

• Chinese Restaurant(890-0714; Afroqa Hwy, 29 Saba Blvd; meals IR60,000)

• Jaam-e Jam Food Court(Jaam-e Jam Shopping Centre, cnr Valiasr Ave & Taheri)

- Hotel Restaurants

• Taj Mahal(803-5444; Vanak Sq, Mollasadra Ave, 29 Sheikh Bahaei St; meals IR55,000)

• Tandoor Restaurant(830-0873; meals IR60,000)

• Seoul Garden(882-3080; meals IR30,000) On the 1st of the Bolour Hotel, the extensive menu is as much Chinese as Korean but is still good value.

<Drinking>

- Ghaem Teahouse(0912-320-0113; Tajfish Sq)

- Sofreh Khane Ayyaran(676-0376)

- Cafe Naderi(670-1872)

- Ghandi Shopping Centre(cnr Gandhi Ave & 4th St) Kactus Coffee, Coffee de France

<Self-Catering>

- Ghadiri Store(311-5949)

<Entertainment>

- Music

Your best chance of seeing music will be in a traditional restaurant or teahouse. Otherwise, wander on to the trusty www.tehranavenue.com to see what's on where.

<Shopping>

- Fair & Shop for Products of Self-Suggiciency Plan of Imam Khomeini's Relief Committee(Ferdosi St)

- Dasto(cnr Valiasr Ave & Sayeh St)

- Malakooti(Gandhi Ave)

<Getting There & Away>

- Air

• Domestic Service : Iran Aseman(889-5567; www.iaa.com; Nejatollahi St) and Mahan Air(877-0593/4; www.mahanairlines.com; Vanak Sq, Gandhi Ave)

• International Service

∙ Air France(670-4111; 882 Enqelab Ave)

∙ British Airways(204-4552; Valiasr Ave)

∙ Iran Air(880-8472; Nejatollahi St)

∙ Lufthhansa(873-8701; Dr Beheshti Ave, 2 Sarafraz St)

∙ Turkish Airlines(874-8450; 239 Motahhari Ave)

- Bus : Iran Peyma booking office(Taavoni No 1; 670-9964; Ferdosi Sq, Ferdosi St)

• Central Bus Station(Arzhantin, Sayro Safar or Beyhaqi terminal) : Bushehr (IR70,000,19hr), Esfahan(IR30,000,7hr), Kerman(IR60,000,15hr), Mashhad (IR58,000,14hr), Shiraz(IR40,000,13hr), Tavriz(IR40,000,10HR), Yazd(IR40,000,10hr)

• Eastern bus station(terminal-e shargh; 786-8080) : Gonbad-e Kavus(IR19,500, 9hr), Gorgan(IR17,500,7hr), Sari(IR13,000,5hr)

• Southern bus station(terminal-e jonub; 559-163) : Ahvaz, Esfahan, Qom, Shiraz, Yazd, Zahedan

•  The western bus station(terminal-e gharb; 606-2854) is Tdhran's busiest, catering for the Caspian region and places to the west of Tehran, as well as for a few other destinations, including Ankara and Istanbul(Turkey), Baku(Azerbaijan), and Damascus(Syria). To get to the bus station, take a shared taxi heading west from Imam Khomeini Sq, or catch anything going to Azadi Sq, and walk northwest to the huge station.  Qazvin(Mercedes/Volvo IR7500/10,000,2hr, every 15min), Tabriz(IR25,000/40,000, 10hr, hourly). etc.

- Train : train station(Rah-Ahan Sq) in southern Tehran.

• tourist information(565-1415)

• www.rajatrains.com : schedules and prices

• ticket office : You can buy tickets a week or more in advance at a travel agency-there are several situated along Nejatollahi St that will be able to sort you out. At the station you can only buy tickets for travel on the same day; you will find the ticket office is up the stairs on the right as you enter the building.

• Tabriz(IR52,550/25,000, 13hr) etc.

<Getting Around>

- Public Transport

• Bus : Buses cover virtually all of Tehran, but as they're often crowded and slow, most travellers end up using taxis.

• Tehran Metro(www.tehranmetro.com)

• Minibus : most travellers ard unlikely to need them

• Trolleybus : currently the one line runs between the eastern bus station and Khorasan Sq.

• Taxi

∙ Private taxi : In practice, chartering a private taxi on the street is not as easy as you might expect because most taxis are looking for shared fares.

∙ Shared taxi : using shared taxis is hard in Tehran partly because of the sheer volume of people but also because the one-way streets make it difficult for an outsider to be sure where they will be going.

16. Qazvin(0281, pop 321,000)

<Orientation>

The city centre is Azadi Sq, widely known as Sabz Meydan. The bazaar and alleys to its southeast are the most atmospheric areas for random strolling.

Qazvin took its turn as Iran's capital in 1500's.

<Information>

The small central telephone office in an alley opposite Bazaar-e Vazim can't handle international calls.

- Ara-net(223-0905; Narderi St; Internet per hr IR7500), Qazvin.net(223-6821; Khayyam St; per IR8000)

- Bank Sepah(Azadi Sq)

- Golpoyen Travel(332-2820; Narderi St) Can book air and rail tickets

- ITTO(334-7407; qazvin@irantourism.org; Resalat St)

- Tourist Information Booth(Narderi St)

<Sights>

- Chehel Sotun(Shah Tahmasp's royal palace)

• museum(damission IR10,000)

- Mosques T Madrasehs

• Jameh Mosque

• Nabi Mosque

• Eltofatiyeh and Sardar Madrasehs

• Imam Jafar Mosque

- Shrines & Tomb Towers

• Imamzadeh-ye Hossein

• Amineh Khatun shrine

• Peyghambarieh

- Gates

• Tehran Gate(Darvazeh-e-Qadim-e-Tehran)

• Rah Kushk Gate(Darbe Kousht; Narderi St)

• Ali Qapu(Helal-e-Ahmar St)

- Cisterns & Bathhouses

• Sardar cisterns

• Haji Kazem Cistern

• Safa Hammam(Molavi St; bath IR3000)

- Historic Houses

• Aminiha Hossein(Ahemyna Hossein; Molavi St; admission by donation)

• Amir Kabir house and former Grand Hotel(both derelict)

• Arasi house

- Churches

• Kantur Church(Borj-e-Naghus)

• Rafie Church

- Bazaar & Craft Workshops

<Sleeping>

- Hotel Iran(222-8877; Peyghambarieh St; tw IR60,000)

- Alborz Hotel(fax 222-6631; Hotel_Alborz_q@yahoo.com; Teleqani Blvd; tw US$35)

- Khahsar Hotel(222-4239; Khaleqi Alley; tw IR50,000)

<Eating>

- Dishlemeh(334-9265; Narderi St; meals IR20,000-28,000) kubideh(pressed mince kebab)

- Yas(222-2853;Yasa Alley; meals IR5,000-20,000) gheymeh nasar(meat stew)

- Broasted Chicken(333-0030; Blvd Ayatollah Khomeini; chicken & chips IR15,000)

<Getting There & Away>

- Bus, Minibus & Savari

From the main bus station, northeast of the Tehran Gate, there are frequent buses to Tehran(IR6000 to IR9000, 3hr). For bus pick-ups or savaris to Zanjan, Soltaniyeh or Hamadan junction. etc.

- Train

To avoid the traffic a train to Tehran(IR5000,2hr) makes sense. The best sleeper train for Tabriz leaves around 9:30pm(11hr), but tickets can be in short supply. Call 223-0001 to check the schedule.

17. Tabriz(0411, pop 1,220,000)

<Information>

- Bookshops : There are several bookshops on Taleqani St, east of the Arg-e Tabrix, but almost nothing is in English and maps are limiled to Caspian tourist route plans.

- Emergency

• Pardis Clinic(281-7681; Felestin St)

• Pastor Clinic(334-0104; Imam Khomeine St, Abaresan Crossing)

• Shafa Hospital(208-7168; Fajr Sq)

- Internet Access

• RedNet(Valiasr; per hr IR8000)

• Sabs Coffeenet(554-0577; Tarbeyat Shopping Mail off Imam Khomeini St; per hr IR6000)

• Valiasr Coffeenet(333-2952; Mokhabera St, Valiasr; per hr IR8000)

- Money

• Bank Melli(Qods St)

- Post

• Main Post Office(Artesh St)

• Post Office(Shohada Sq)

- Telephone

• Telephone Office(Altaer System; east Miyar Miyar Alley)

- Tourist Information

• ITTO East Azarbayjan(541-6682; www.heydarbaba.org; Pastor Ave, Artesh St)

• Tourist Information Office(525-2501; Qods St)

- Travel Agencies

• ALP Tours & Travel Agency(331-0340;fax 331-0825; Karomkhan Sq)

• Jahan Seyer Travel Agency(555-6004;fax553-2331; Imam Khomeini St)

- Visa Extensions

• Passport Office(477-6666; Saeb St)

<Sights>

- Bazaar

• timches(domed halls)

- Blue(Kabud) Mosque(Imam Khomieni St; admission IR20,000)

- Azarbayjan Museum(Imam Khomeini St; admission IR30,000)

- Arg-e Tabriz : Jameh Mosque

- Church

• Sarkis Church(Kalisa-ye Sarkis-e Moqaddas; Kalisa Alley)

• Armenian Prelacy Office(555-3532; archtab@itm.co.ir, Shari'ati Ave)

- Other Attractions

• Constitution House(Motahhari St; admission IR20,000)

• Poets' Mausoleum(Magberatol-Shoara; Seyid Hamzeh St)

• Municipal Hall(Shahrdari Sq)

• Quran Museum

• Elgoli(Shahgoli) Park

<Sleeping>

- Budget

• Mashhad Hotel(555-8255; Ferdosi St; dm/tw IR12,000/35,000)

• Mamoodi Hotel(554-1744; Imam Khomeini St; tw IR38,000)

• Golshan Hotel(556-3760; Imam Khomeini St; tw IR50,000)

• Ark Hotel(555-1277; Ark Alley; tw IR80,000)

• Djahannama Hotel(553-7539; Imam Khomeini St; tw IR50,000

- Mid-Range

• Hotel Sina(556-6211; Fajr Sq; tw IR220,000)

• Kosar Hotel(553-7691;fax554-1570; Imam Khomeini St; d IR108,000)

• Ghostaresh Hotel(334-5021;fax334-6778; Abaresan Crossing; tw US$35)

- Top End

• Hotel Elgoli(Tabriz Pars; 380-7820 fax380-8555; Elgoli Park; d US$88)

<Eating & Drinking>

- Central Area

• Haji Ali(Kola Duzun Bazaar; set meal IR21,000; lunch) chelo kabab(kebab on rice)

• Honarmandam(Place of Artists; 553-4594; Imam Khomeini St; kebab meals IR18,000)

• Modern Tabriz Restaurant(Imam Khomeini St; meals IR20,000-35,000)

• Afsahe Pizza(Imam Khomeini Ave; pizzas IR15,000)

• Nobar Bath-house(Imam Khomeini St)

- Valiasr Area

• teahouse(Amir Kabir St)

• Balouch(330-0100;Shahriyar St; pizzas IR15,000) fried chicken

• Paduna Cafe(331-8431; Karimkhan Sq) ice-cream

• Pars Restaurant(333-0048; Homam Tabrizi St; meals IR30,000)

• Shoko(Shahriyar St) Nutella and cornflakes

- Abaresan Crossing

• Abdi(336-245; 29 Bahman St; pizza IR15,000-20,000)

- Elgoli

• Revolving Restaurant(Hotel Elgoli, 11th fl; meals IR50,000-110,000)

• Talar Bozorg Elgoli(330-5263; Elgoli Park; meals IR25,000)

<Getting There & Away>

- Air

Iran Air has direct Tuesday flights to Mashhad(IR376,000), but all other destinations connect via Tehran(IR190,000,4 daily). Tickets ard sold conveniently from Jahan Seyer Travel Agency.

- Bus, Minibus & Savari

main bus station(479-6091),3km south of the central area

• Maku(IR13,500, 4hr, 6 daily), Tehran(IR25,000-40,000,10hr,frequent) etc.

- International Bus

To Yerevan(Armenia) buses depart from Imam Khomeini Sq near the train station(IR200,000, 11pm Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday), but buy tickets from the central branch of Seiro Safar(555-7797;Imam Khomeini Ave). To both Baku(Azerbaijan) and Istanbul(via Erzerum, Turkey) there are nightly buses around 10:30pm from company offices along central Imam Khomeini St, notably Aram Safar(556-0597), Khoshrah(556-4451) and Mihan Safar(555-4908). All buses originate in Tehran.

- Train

There are two overnight trains to Tehran(12hr) via Maraqeh(2hr25min), Zanjan(9hr,arriving antisocially early) and Qzavin. On Mondays and Saturdays an international service to Nakhchivan(Azerbaijan enclave) at 5pm, though it's much more sensible to get to Jolfa and walk across the border.

The train station(444-4419;Imam Khomeini Sq) is beyond the western end of 22 Bahman St. Shared taxis and city bus No111 stop five minutes' walk away.

<Getting Around>

- To/From the Airport : Bus No 136 runs from Montazeri St near the Hameh Mosque to the airport every 40 minutes. A taxi should cost IR8000 to IR10,000.

- Bus & Minibus : City buses are infrequent, but cost only IR250 per hop; buy tickets before entry. Useful routes include No 160 to the bus station, No 110 to Valiasr and No 136 to the airport via the Marand terminal. Buses No 132 and 111 run the length of 22 Bahman St so they get you close to the train station. Within the centre, distances between bus stops can be great and  shared taxis are more frequent.

- Tram/Metro : Construction has started on a tram system linking Elgoli Park to the train station.

18. Maku(0462, pop 38,000, elevation 1630m)

<Sights>

- Abu Fasl Mosque

- Zindan Shah Abbas(royal prison)

- Baqcheh Juq Palace Museum(324-3719; acmission IR20,000)

<Sleeping & Eating>

- Makoo Tourist Inn(Mehmunsara Jahangardi; 322-3212; fax322-3184; tw US$15)

- Hotel Alvand(322-3491; tw IR45,000)

- Hotel Lakeh(322-3441; tw IR60,000)

- Delgosha(322-3623; tw IR26,100)

- Pasha Baba(324-4419; Resslat Blvd; meals IR13,000-18,000)

- Makoo Tourist Inn's restaurant(meals IR15,000-25,000)

<Getting There & Away>

From the bus station at the eastern(Tabriz) end of town there are buses to Tehran(IR45,000, 3 daily), Tabriz(IR12,000, 4hr, 6 daily), departing at 6:30am,7;15am,8:30am,9am,12:30pm, and Orumiyeh(IR10,000 to IR13,000, 4hr30min, 5 daily), departing at 7am,7:30am,8am,2:30pm and 3:30pm, via Khoy(IR5000), Alternatively use savaris via Khoy or Marand.

19. Bazargan(0462)

<Sleeping & Eating>

- Hotel Hamid(337-2435; Imam St; tw IR50,000)

- Hotel Jafapoor(337-2058; Imam St; dm/tw IR15,000/30,000)

- Qods Lokantasi(337-2928; Imam St; meals IR9000-20,000)

<Getting There & Away>

There is no need to take the expensive taxis whose drivers tout outside the immigration post. Instead take the IR500 shuttle bus down to Bazargan village(or walk for 30 minutes). Just beyond the outer border gate, Bazargan's main taxi stand is in front of the Hotel Hafapoor. From here to Maku you should pay IR2000 tl IR3000 per person, IR10,000 per car direct or IR20,000 with an excursion to Sangar. A savari to Tabiz costs IR20,000 per person, or charter a savari for US$20, including a side trip to Qareh Kalisa. There are no longer any minibuses.

※ To Turkey

<Air>

There are surprisingly few fligts between Iran and Turkey. Iran Air has three flights a week between Tehran and Istanbul, while Turkish Airlines flies the same route daily. Flights leave very early and you can expect to pay at least US$500 for a return ticket, more on Turkish  Airlines.

• Iran Air(code IR; in Tehran 021-880-8472; www.iranair.com; hub Tehran)

• Turkish Airlines(code TK; in Tehran 021-874-8450; www.turkishairlines.com; hub istanbul)

<Land>

There are two main crossing along the border with Turkey. The busy main one is at Gurbulak(Turkey) and Bazargna(Iran), where there are hotels, moneychanging facilities and regular transport on either side of the border.

- Bus : Travelling by bus you have two options. The easier is to take a direct long-distance bus to, say Tehran or Tabriz from Istanbul, Ankara or Erzurum, although this involves lenghy delays while you wait for everyone on the bus to be cleared through customs and immigration(as a lone foreigner, you might be done and ou your way in less than an hour).

Every week, several long-distance buses travel between Istanbul and Ankara and Tehran. From Tehran, tickets cost about IR200,000 to Istanbul(about 42hr) but IR250,000 to Ankara(38hr), which is nearer.

- Train : Tne train from Istanbul to Tehran via Ankara and Tabriz, among others, is called the Trans-Asia Express. It runs weekly in either direction and, at the time of writing, trains on the 2968km journey left Tehran at 10:35pm in Thursday(IR512,550). It takes 70 hours and seating is in comfortable 1st-class comparments with four berths. Check www.rajatrains.com or the excellent ```www.seat61.com for the latest timegables and prices.

20. Zahedan(0541, pop 534,000)

<Information>

- Emergency

• Khatam Hospital(322-7067) Just east of the train station.

• Police Headquarters(322-2092) Next to the bazaar, but hard to find, so ask for directions.

- Internet Access

• Esteghlal Grand Hotel Internet Cafe(Azadi Sq; per hr IR14,000)

• Institute for Internet Services(321-4180; Azadi Sq; per hr IR7000)

- Money

• Bank Melli Central Branch(Azadi St)

- Post

• Main Post Office(Dr Shariati)

- Telephone

• International Phone Office(Taleqane Sq)

- Travel Agencies

• Daz Tour & Travel(323-7674; www.dazagency.com; Azadi Sq)

<Sleeping>

- Hotel Momtzahirmand(322-2313; Bazar-e Ruz; tw IR40,000)

- Abuzar Hotel(451-2131; 40 Metri-e Kamarbandi St; r IR30,000)

- Kavir Hotel & Restaurant(323-2150; Motahhari Blvd; d IR130,000)

- Hotel Amin(323-9892; Momnin St; tw US$40)

- Esteghalal Grand Hotel(323-8088; fax322-2239; Azadi Sq; d IR706,483)

<Eating>

- Abuzar Hotel(451-2132; 40 Metri-e Kamarbandi St)

- Hotel Momtzahirmand(322-2313; meals IR20,000)

- Esteghlal Restaurant(322-2250; Imam Khomeini St; meals IR15,000)

- Kavir Hotel & Restaurant(dinner only)

- Esteghalal Grand Hotel(meals IR40,000)

<Getting There & Away>

- Air : Iran Air(322-0813/4) near Azadi Sq, Tehran(IR353,000,once or twice daily) etc. You'll need to use a travel agency to get a ticket.

- Bus

• To/From Pakistan : There are frequent buses(IR4000,1hr30min) and minibuses(IR5000,1hr30min) from Zahedan to Mirjaveh(96km). The easiest way, however, is to get a savari(IR10,000,1hr) from Forudgah Sq in the far east of town. The Iran-Pakistan border is 15km further east of Mirjaveh village, so clarify whether your vehicle is going to the village or border. It is easy enough to get something between the village and border. Cross the border on foot and take whatever transport is heading your way on the other side.

- Taxi

Between Zahedan and the border, a private taxi shouldn't cost more than IR50,000 and is a good way to avoid the lof jam at the checkpoint between Mirjaveh and the border.

- Train

The new line linking Kerman and Zahedan had not quite reached Bam at the time of writing. There is a chance, though no more than that, it will be completed all the way to Zahedan(and hence Pakistan) during the life of this book. Check Raja Trains(www.rajatrains.com) for updates.

• To/From Pakistan

There is a train between Zahedan and Quetta, but you'd have to be an almost obsessive trainspotter to even consider taking it.